Wednesday 10 July 2013

I've bought a ticket to Havana!

When the nights are long again and the east wind blows - that's when I'll be heading for the airport again.

Why Cuba? Well, why not? 

Am I suggesting that this decision is entirely arbitrary? No, of course not. I've mulled over destinations for a while. I'd like to explore a new continent - I love the Far East, but feel I'm ready to tread on different soil. Africa? I almost booked a flight to Madagascar, and then discovered that there are cyclones there in the winter (I've done cyclones; fun to write about ... not much fun at the time) and elections this September. I need to do more research before trying most African countries on my own - I know tour groups run successful trips in the National Parks, but I can't get a feel for what it would be like for a western woman wandering about on her own.

South America? I've been to Venezuela, and wonderful it was too. But I've no Spanish and it would have been impossible had I been alone and unable to say more than 'please' and 'thank you'. And it's not so safe at the moment. 

Which leads me into the whole safety-thing. I know some of you think me utterly reckless, but I try to take my safety seriously. Which, these days, excludes more and more countries that women once visited without concern. I know we only have television and newspaper reports to go on, and I'm sure that there are peaceful corners of Iraq and Syria, but I'm not convinced I could wander from a hotel with nothing but optimism and a headscarf to keep me safe. Yemen? Saudi? Qatar? How easy is it for women to visit these countries when those who live there are not allowed to drive? I long to visit some of the cities on the Silk Road - has anyone been to Uzbekistan, and can let me know how life is like for single women there?

It hasn't always been like this. The Hippy Trail of the late 1960s saw scores of young people driving through the Middle East, camping on the Khyber Pass, exploring the markets of Kabul. 

It saddens me, this narrowing of our world, these divisions into safe and unsafe places. I grieve when the things that divide us - the colour of our skins or the gods we worship - take precedence over all we have in common - the need for food and shelter, to love and be loved, and to tell our stories.

I shall have a wonderful time in Cuba - I've no doubt of that. I am already practising a salsa. And one day I want to go to Samarkand, on my own, to smell the incense in her markets and feel the slither of her silks, like women and men have done since the dawn of trade.

14 comments:

  1. A friend has just been to Cuba and I'm sure you will love it. I'll look forward to reading what you have to say about it as it is a place I would like to visit some time, too. Samarkand is indeed magic, or it was in the mid 70s. The women teased me about the tiny pigtail I had at the time, compared to theirs, but that is a long time ago and I don't know what it is like now. Like you, I am saddened by the divisions and restrictions that separate us more and more from basic human contact.

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    1. Have you written about Samarkand, Trish? I've wanted to go ever since I came across the poem!

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  2. There seems to be more places in the world it is unsafe to visit,some people are even amazed we are still going to Turkey with the unrest there's been there.
    Cuba sounds amazing, I 've seen lots of travel shows about it. Lots of planning for you and a trip to France perhaps before then? You must be excited.

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    1. France is very soon, Anne - I'll let you know when. Cuba is for the winter.

      I have neighbours who visit Iran, and say the people are lovely. But they are always in groups, and I don't want to do the group-think until I'm really creaky.

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  3. Havana! I'm speechless... well no I'm not cause I always manage to find something to say but you know what I mean. Would that I was as brave.

    You're quite right about the growing unrest and how sad that is for what we thought was going to be a shrinking world. Of course, there always have been dangers, cannibalism, pirates, but now the fear of being attacked merely for being a woman? Our civilisation has taken a wrong turning somewhere.

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    1. Havana is much safer than some of the places I've been, Ros. And I'd love to visit Syria, and Iraq, and see how life is for women there. It's crazy that we get so caught on all that divides us.

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  4. WOW!!!! One of my students went there. Loved it. Have a great trip!! Lots of pics please....maybe material for another book???

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    1. Will there be a book? Now let me think ...

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  5. I am green, Jo. It's almost number one on my wish list of places to go! I would so love to come with you! I know for sure you will love it from what I have read. As for the safety issue, I have a girlfriend who went to Syria and Jordon a couple of years back on her own. She had a marvellous time and was so well looked after. She claimed it was because people were worried about her they took extra care of her. It's a difficult call to make, I know, and I'm not sure what I would do - probably play it safe. But then I wouldn't hesitate to go to southern Africa. I guess it's because I know it and feel such familiarity. That makes a big difference.

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    1. This is fascinating, Val - maybe I'll give the Middle East a go sometime. And South Africa - I know tour groups do well there, and one of my daughter travelled round with a rucksack and came to no harm, but the tales of rape and pillage do make me think twice. It's hard being somewhere if you can't go out in the evening on your own to get a meal (or can you?).

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    2. Havana....Cuba....Oh it sounds wonderful Jo! I bet you can't wait....

      You're so right about the world becoming a smaller place for women to travel safely on their own....Samarkand does sound rather magical though....

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    3. Jo, just popped back here. About South Africa and going out to eat alone. It depends on where you are. In Johannesburg, walking alone after dark is dangerous, so you take a taxi. In Cape Town, I think it's better but best to walk with someone if you can. I would still be careful.But these are the big cities. In rural towns, life is still pretty peaceful and provided you keep to well lit areas, I wouldn't see a problem. It's always a good idea to check when you're there. What you mostly find is that people will give you a lift very readily. They are incredibly hospitable. The main problem with southern Africa for the single traveller is that public transport is very limited, so there are very few trains and buses. That's why so many people go with tour groups, I think.

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    4. Thanks Val - it's beginning to sound very tempting! Will put it on the list.

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  6. Enjoy your trip! Perhaps there are now a reasonable number of shops in Cuba :) very bizarre since they are something you always expect. Have you read Dervla Murphy's book on travelling mostly alone in Cuba? All her books are amazing. I sometimes think that it seemed safer in Ye Olde Days because we were younger and thought everything was bound to be fine. People I knew had some pretty dire experiences actually...

    Oh, and I have bought a copy of Bombs and Butterflies, and I will look forward to reading it!

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