Sunday 5 April 2015

One of Malaysia's secrets: Fraser's Hill

I'm reluctant to tell you about Fraser's Hill.

For one of the most wonderful things about it is there being so few other visitors. There are a couple of big hotels, and plenty of self-catering bungalows. And at weekends Malaysians drive up from KL for a couple of cooler days in the hills. But much of the time a tourist who strays there has the place to him or herself.

Though you're not quite alone. For you must share the space with birds. I've seen various estimates of the variety of birds seen here - numbers vary but it's definitely more than 250.

Imagine that!! Over 250 species of birds, twittering and squawking and cackling and generally making themselves at home in the jungle! Once a year there is a 'bird-race' here - nothing to do with lining them up and cheering all the way to the finishing line. Instead twitchers set themselves up with binoculars and notebooks and count the different species: the winner is the person who spots the most.

I don't have pictures of birds - even though they swooped around my hotel room from daybreak till the sun went down. I don't have pictures of the animals - I've mentioned the gibbons before, and I saw wild boar trot across the road in front of the hotel. I don't even have pictures of insects: tarantulas on the prowl, searching for an unsuspecting fledgling. Nor reptiles (there are snakes here).

I can't even identify many of the plants and trees, in spite of noticeboards telling me what to look for.

I only have pictures of the jungle.


Boards describe these paths as 'easy with occasional obstacles'. They fib. Some are steeper than others, but all involve some scrambling. But the rewards - being in the green of the forest, listening to birdsong and smelling the mud and whiff of animals. And this is why I'm reluctant to tell you about it, for the attraction - for me, at least - was being there on my own.


Below is a 'rest stop'. The noticeboard has plenty of useful information, and I read it - as a good tourist should. And then promptly forgot everything I'd read and just listened, and looked. You can't see the small spider holes in the bank beyond this rest stop - but I watched for a while, wondering if one would come out to play. Possibly a good thing that she didn't.


But Fraser's Hill is built for visitors. It cannot survive unless more people go there. This is the hotel where I stayed - and you can see the size of it. The staff were kind and the food good. But I rattled around, in almost-solitary spendour.


There is no easy answer. I'm not the only tourist who loves the peace and quiet. But without more visitors it's hard to see how Fraser's Hill can keep going - and then these precious paths will be left to the gibbons, and snakes, and spiders. And those who work here will have little choice but to join the migration to the city.

8 comments:

  1. This looks an amazing place, Jo and you bring it to life in your writing (saves me having to travel there, though I'd love to). As you say, it's a paradox..the solitary beauty would be spoiled if it became a tourist haven...but what a shame not to see and experience what you were so fortunate to do.

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    1. There must be thousands of places like this - hidden away and beautiful. And millions of people need work or their families go hungry. It's a tough one.

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  2. I can see the problem. How to maintain a perfect, unspoilt location without the financial input of tourists who will ruin the location. I'm so glad you got to see it as it is but as for you fearing that I might go along and spoil the tranquility. Have no fear. Snakes and spiders! I think not!

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    1. I know I can rely on you to enjoy it from the safety of Leicester, Ros!

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  3. Oh what a dilemma! They clearly thought a bit too big when they built the hotel as surely such a place would only appeal to those seeking peace and respite from the rush of the city. Your descriptions are wonderful and just make me want to go there, "smell the mud" and scramble up the banks. I hope a few more people discover it, but not too many!

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    1. Thorny one, isn't it Val. A few more people would be fine - but no so many they disturb the gibbons and the birds.

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  4. That's the problem with secluded places when more people come and it's not secluded anymore the people who enjoyed it in the first place won't return. Lovely photos.

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  5. It can be such a dilemma. But what a wonderful place. It looks as if the forest is big enough to swallow up all the guests from that hotel, and more. If I get to that part of the world I will definitely go.

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